Zainie Misbach, doyenne of Cape Malay cuisine, tells us about her neighbourhood
Zainie Misbach has lived her whole life in the Bo-Kaap, from the apartheid years when her childhood home was a safe house for political activists, to today when gentrification is a threat to her community. She’s passionate about preserving the Cape Malay culture and she’s spreading the word through interactive Bo-Kaap Cooking Tour where visitors learn about the history of the area while they fold samosas, roll rotis and stir curries.
“I grew up right at the top, at the Noon Gun, the last house. From my bedroom as a child I could see the harbour, Table Mountain, Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head – amazing panoramic views – and we had a garden full of every fruit tree you could think of,” says Zainie. “Living down here in Rose Street I really miss the views. When I moved in here I took a jackhammer to all the concrete in the yard at the back to turn it back into a garden. I planted trees and I look after the garden now. It’s a communal garden for all the houses that back onto it.”
Owning her own home is testament to her determination and hard work. “I applied at the city council for a house when I got married. We went to Johannesburg for three years then returned, and I was living at my parents’ house where I had my first child. I was still looking for a house and was told one had finally become available on Rose Street. I didn’t want to move down here, can you believe it? I raised my four kids here and once I’d paid rent for seven years, I was eligible to buy my home. By that time I was a single mother and I had to convince the City Council to allow me, as a woman on my own, to buy the house. Back then there were clauses that you had to live in it another seven years before selling. I’ve lived here ever since.” Rose Street is on the city periphery, so one side is the CBD and the other is the Bo-Kaap. “Gentrification is a big issue that we’ve fought for more than 10 years, when some apartments were sold to a foreigner who evicted all the families renting,” says Zainie.
“Rose Street is the main area affected. I used to know everyone on this street, but now there are only eight Cape Malay families in the whole long street. The rest is owned by foreigners for B&Bs and holiday accommodation.” But an even bigger threat to the character and culture of the area are the huge apartment buildings being constructed on the city side of Rose Street.
The Cape Malay community is still strong with good schools – which some of Zainie’s grandchildren attend – an active community centre, mosques and an old age association. “Ramadan brings people together, not just with fasting but you are also constantly giving. There’s a very strong culture of helping your neighbour that is still prevalent. You know who the people in need are,” says Zainie. “Even though other Malay people from Mitchells Plain or Athlone might only visit at New Year, they still feel that Bo-Kaap is their home place where their memories are, where their origins are. There is resentment in the community when anyone sells their homes to foreigners – there’s anxiety that we are losing our Bo-Kaap.”
I was born here and I still love the BoKaap. It's close to the vibrant and cosmopolitan city. I do tours, greeting many people and it makes me happy and proud to be part of this community.
-Zainie Misbach.
About Zainie Misbach
Zainie Misbach is a Bo-Kaap local with strong community ties and a passion for preserving the Cape Malay culture. With over 30 years’ experience in Cape Malay cuisine from opening the very first Cape Malay restaurant in South Africa, Biesmiellah Restaurant, and with her family Noon Gun Restaurant, to consulting on Masterchef SA, she now runs Bo Kaap Cooking Tours.
Top schools:
- Schotsche Kloof Primary
- St Paul’s Primary
- Vista High School
- ICRA Comprehensive School
Shops:
- Atlas Trading: for all the spices of the East
- Rocksole: an institution for shoe repairs and leather goods
- Monkeybiz Bead Project: for quirky bead designs
- Bo-Op a contemporary design collective
- Rose Corner Cafe: for groceries
This article originally appeared in Neighbourhood, Sunday Times.
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