The sustainable approach to food at La Tete in Bree Street is real, honest and absolutely delicious.
The “nose to tail” tag is too narrow for what chef Giles Edwards is cooking up at La Tete on Bree Street. Sure, there are intriguing dishes from the less glamorous parts of the animal, but there are also several fish and vegetarian dishes on the menu which changes daily – the fried fish sandwich being a lunchtime favourite for regulars.
“I prefer sustainability – it’s a circle of food,” says Giles. “Everyone is raising amazing animals – Boschendal, Spier, Glen Oakes, Oak Valley – but no one is using the off al. I’m completing that circle. We need to consume everything as it becomes available, be it a quince in season, be it a heart or be it hake. It’s not about nose-to-tail, it’s about consumption of local, sustainable products.”
The French inspiration is in more than just the name: the simple, almost stark, decor puts the focus firmly on the food, and the unpretentious dishes would be welcomed by any gourmand. “The French are the masters of no waste,” says Giles. “I love the food and culture in France and on the continent.”
Giles makes it easy to fall in love with the more outlandish cuts of meat: perfectly cooked and presented, you’re so transported by the flavour you forget about anatomy. The pig’s cheek is as crispy and tasty emphasized textas the pork belly, with a crunchy salad of radishes, watercress and mustardy dressing; pig’s trotters come as a cupful of rich stew with a quail’s egg shakshuka style, every mouthful a treat; chicken hearts come in a rich spicy gravy with a crispy layered potato bake – all wowing us as shared starters. For mains, I was intrigued by Giles’s claim that ox heart as a leaner, cleaner alternative to steak. With chunky chips and homemade horseradish sauce, it packed all the flavour punch of the best steak and convinced us once and for all that we’ve all been missing out by equating off al with the worst of school food memories.
The no waste philosophy extends to dessert: the floating island, meringue poached in a rich custard, uses up leftover egg whites; and a delicate jelly was inspired by an abundance of quinces. With the menu changing daily, a constantly evolving wine list, and great coffee, La Tete restaurant is one to visit often.
Taste for yourself:
- La Tete | 021 418 1299 | latete.co.za
This article originally appeared in Neighbourhood, Sunday Times.
